Marble Mountain and a Dragon Bridge

We arrived in Da Nang on Day 73 of our Circle Pacific cruise aboard the Coral Princess and by 9:00 am we were already on a bus for our ship’s excursion. Right away, Da Nang felt like a city of contrasts.

As we drove toward the center, we could see how developed it has become with high-rise buildings, modern streets and a coastline lined with resorts built for vacationers. But the outskirts told a different story. As we passed through the outer areas, things looked poorer, rougher and it wasn’t very clean. There was garbage scattered around in many places. The difference between the polished tourist zones and the less cared-for edges of the city was hard to miss.

Driving out from the port we passed open fields where cows grazed wherever they wanted and we saw a number of empty buildings. They were projects that had stalled or gone bankrupt during COVID but now looked like they were being finished and turned into new resort developments. About 15 minutes from the port we passed through a 7 km long tunnel through the mountain range that made a previous 2 hour drive, now 5 minutes. They only allow vehicles to pass here so locals will pay a small fee to have their scooters loaded onto trucks and transported through the tunnel to save them considerable time.

In every Vietnamese city the scooters are all over the streets and they seem to think they own the road. Yesterday we were travelling intow lanes, in pretty heavy traffic going about 10 miles per hour and a woman on a scooter was going the opposite direction between the vehicles. That was an accident waiting to happen.

Da Nang has a lot of history behind the modern skyline. It has long been an important port city and during the Vietnam War it became a major military and logistics hub, especially after the first U.S. combat troops landed here in 1965. Today it’s known for its beaches, its access to nearby UNESCO sites like Hội An and Huế, and for landmarks like the Dragon Bridge. It’s also closely tied to the Marble Mountains and the region’s long tradition of stone and marble carving.

The “Happy Room” and a marble carving stop

Our first stop was what our guide called the “Happy Room” which was a quick bathroom break at a marble carving site with an impressive amount of finished work on display.

Behind the display of statues and other carvings, the craftsmen were making two new marble pieces. They were grinding away on them using disc sander and a detail grinder with a fine tool to be precise with making details. In the one picture I took you can see a photo of what he is carving.

There were hundreds of items for sale in this manufacturing site and I took various photos to show the different array of items. They say a shipment to North America is likely a $5,000 cost but if the statue is expensive (because it is solid marble and heavy) the freight cost is minimal. Jan and I decided we didn't need one.

This was my favorite carving - this guy looked he would take my head off if I got any closer.

Marble Mountain — history, caves, and temples inside the rock

We continued to Marble Mountain, which was close by and we saw that tourism was in full swing. We waited about 30 minutes to get up the elevator with seven buses ahead of us. there were two cruise ships in the port today all in town on tours.

The Marble Mountains (Ngũ Hành Sơn) are a cluster of five limestone-and-marble hills named after the five elements (metal, wood, water, fire and earth). For centuries they’ve been a sacred place, with Buddhist sanctuaries, pagodas and shrines built into natural caves and along the slopes. During the Vietnam War, parts of the mountains were used as hiding places and field positions but the area suffered damage. Many sections have since been restored and rebuilt, and today it’s one of the most visited spiritual and historical sites near Da Nang.

The views from the top of the mountain were spectacular and gave us a good overview of the area.

Once we were up top, we moved through a series of cave “rooms,” each with its own atmosphere:

• Huyền Không Cave was the showstopper. It’s a large open chamber where daylight pours down through openings above, creating dramatic beams of light inside the cave. Within that space are altars and statues which was a mix of Buddhist imagery and local spiritual worship so it felt like part cathedral and part natural wonder. The contrast between the bright shafts of light and the cool stone made it unforgettable.

• Âm Phủ (Hell) Cave was completely different—darker, narrower and designed to feel like a journey. It’s associated with Vietnamese Buddhist ideas of the afterlife, with figures and scenes meant to represent judgment and consequences before reaching a more peaceful end. Walking through it felt like stepping into a story and it was one of the most memorable parts of the mountain because it was so unlike the serene temple spaces.

The interior of the temple was stunning with elaborate gold and other decorations.

Between the caves we passed temples, Buddhas and shrines tucked into the rock and every turn seemed to reveal another carved doorway, staircase or hidden chamber.

China Beach, Han Market, and lunch in town

Next we stopped at China Beach, famous for its long stretch of sand and its Vietnam War history, when it served as a major R&R beach for American and allied troops stationed in the Da Nang area.

After that we headed to the Han Market, which was absolutely packed with busy aisles, constant motion and a wall of sound that made it feel like the whole city was shopping at once. We didn’t buy anything, but it was still memorable just for the energy. After 30 minutes we decided this was not for us so we scrambled out. They say that this area is the least expensive place to buy items and it is not uncommon to barter and get 75% of the asking price. There are no List Prices on any items except food. We did get a few deals and maybe we should have purchased another suitcase while in this town.

We walked down the street and had lunch at an authentic Vietnamese restaurant. We enjoyed the spring rolls, fried rice with seafood and the beef noodles which was exactly what we wanted. Our table was 4 feet from the kitchen and about 8 feet from their Happy Room.

Waterfront views

After lunch we met at the waterfront, where we could see the Dragon Bridge and look out over the river. The promenade provided an excellent spot to relax and take in the city views.

These are zoomed photos of the head and the tail of the dragon

At one point during our time in Da Nang we could view the Lady Buddha and I managed to get one photo from about 5 miles away. it just was a long shot but at least I was able to get it.

The Lady Buddha in Da Nang is the towering white statue of Guanyin (Quan Âm)—the Buddhist bodhisattva of compassion—standing at Linh Ứng Pagoda on the Sơn Trà Peninsula overlooking the sea. Built to watch over fishermen and protect the coastline, she has become one of the city’s most important spiritual landmarks and a symbol of Da Nang itself. At roughly 67 metres (about 220 feet) tall, she’s the tallest Buddha statue in Vietnam and from the temple grounds you get sweeping views back toward the city and the beaches.

I borrowed some pictures from a friend to show you what it really looks like. After you have seen these photos I need to give the pictures back to my friend so let me know when you are finished (LOL).

As we boarded our bus to head "home" I took photos from a viewing spot on the edge of the Han River which is the central iconic feature of the city, famous for its scenic banks, boat trips and for being crossed by so many bridges including the Dragon Bridge (noted for its weekend firework/water show) as well as the Han River Swing Bridge.

It was time to return to the ship and although it was a short day, but a hot one, we had a great snapshot of Da Nang. Our excursion was not as busy as previous trips but with the heat and humidity it still wore us out. As we drove back to our port we stopped at another "Happy Room" and as everyone appreciated the stop, I snapped a couple photos of a lagoon used to grow oysters. It looked more like a recreational area than a fish farm.

Tomorrow we have a Sea Day and we will take advantage of the rest as we sail toward China for another Hallman Experience.

We can't wait to get a full day in Hong Kong and knowing that it is Easter weekend, we will see how it is celebrated in China. Enjoy our last stop in Vietnam - it opened our eyes regarding history and taught us how they survive a lifestyle in this country. Nest stop - China!