Halong Bay - a Kayakers Paradise
- Paul Hallman
- Apr 3
- 6 min read
Updated: Apr 3
When we first planned this Circle Pacific cruise we spent hours looking at excursions and things that we could do in different ports. At times it was a daunting task because there were so many options at each location and generally speaking we didn't have much of an idea what we should see. When we researched the Vietnam portion of our cruise, one place stood out above anything else and yes, today was our day to enjoy what is near and dear to our hearts. We went kayaking in a beautiful bay in Vietnam and had an amazing experience in Halong Bay.
This was our first view of the islands as we sailed into the region - How beautiful !!
Our ship arrived in the port around 7 am, just as the sun was rising and the view of the bay, was amazing. So many islands, ships and fishing boats everywhere we looked. The Captain had to swerve in and out to miss all the ships anchored as they were being unloaded in the bay.
When we arrived we could see from our balcony that the locals were prepared for the ship to arrive as quite a few passengers were taking an all day excursion to Hanoi, which was a 3 hour bus ride. When we looked at the dock there was a lineup of busses ready to be put into action. At some ports there are upwards of 30 busses ready to take passengers out on their excursions. Moving 2,000 people on excursions needs lots of coordination and plenty of busses.
After our arrival we disembarked the ship and took a short shuttle ride to a location on the pier where our excursion boat was docked. We were off to kayak Halong Bay and visit the floating fishing villages and caves.
Jan found a nice spot on the upper deck of the boat to soak up the sun and relax as the weather was cooler and there was a very nice breeze. Jan wants that swing at our cottage but I am not sure where to locate it as we have all spots already full however, that may become a Pauly project come summer time.
When we set out for Halong Bay, it quickly became one of those ports we know we’ll remember for a long time. Before we got going we were struck by the history of the place itself. The bay’s dramatic limestone towers started as ancient seabed deposits that slowly became limestone and then, over tens of millions of years rain, waves and erosion carved the cliffs, caves, arches and hidden lagoons. The scale is huge. Halong Bay covers roughly 600 mi² and contains about 2,000 islands and islets scattered across the water. It is difficult to put into words the beauty.
Halong Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage site and was first recognized in 1994 for its outstanding aesthetic values and again in the year 2000 for its geological significance.
Kayaking through the limestone islands
Our on-the-water day began with kayaking although we did have a small hiccup right away when oue kayak was damaged and taking on water. Once we swapped it out for a different one we were off with Jan in the back as the stronger paddler. On the water it was calm and beautiful. The towering rock walls, green hill tops, and that quiet feeling you only get when you’re surrounded by sea and stone was what we were looking to experience. We paddled through a rocky cave like opening into another bay and soon passed monkeys along the shoreline. People were feeding them bananas, which definitely got them excited and made the whole scene feel lively and a bit wild. After about 45 minutes, we returned to the dock and reboarded our boat. What an experience to kayak this bay.
This is a video of the kaykers playing with the local monkeys
Floating villages, fish farms, and a pearl stop
Once aboard our boat we cruised into a larger bay where we could see floating villages, fish farms and working docks. It was like a real community spread across the water.
Many floating homes had dogs and they were protective. They would bark if you drifted too close to their home and we were even warned a dog might jump into a kayak if it came near their “front door.”
We took an hour-long Sampan boat tour through the village and were amazed at how skilled the local rowers were, steering with small, narrow paddles and gliding through tight spaces with ease. Many of them were Vietnamese women.
Afterwards we stopped at a floating market where they sold jewelry and pearls and we watched a demonstration of how pearls are made by seeding oysters. Please watch the video to see how precisely he places the seedling into the oyster.
The necklace (pearls and gold) was $24,000 US
As our boat sailed away from the fishing village we could see the oyster field in the distance. They say it can take years to get oysters to produce an pearl.
Lunch on the boat
Lunch was served as we traveled onward and it was a generous spread consisting of chicken, prawns, squid, rice, cooked cabbage, fruit and a beer. It was fresh, filling and exactly what we needed after being out on the water. The squid was so tasty and tender.
Caves, a hidden beach, and wartime stories
After lunch we arrived at an island called Bo Hon Island. It is home to Sung Sot Cave (Surprise Cave), which is the largest and most famous cave in the bay and known for its caves and beach. We climbed the stairs up to the cave and were surprised by how beautiful it was inside. There were large chambers and dramatic formations. We also learned the caves weren’t only scenic. The locals used them for protection during storms and even tsunamis and we heard wartime stories as well. During the war ammunition was hidden in the caves. Bombing during the day by the Americans, couldn’t destroy supplies protected deep inside the rock and at night the ammunition would be moved out by the locals toward the war zone.
One of the most unexpected sights was one side of the cave opened onto a sandy beach, tucked right where the cave meets the water.
Ti Top Island is a Russian island story
On our return to the port we passed an island with a home on the top. We later learned that it was Ti Top Island, named after the Soviet cosmonaut Gherman Titov following his 1962 visit to Vietnam with Ho Chi Minh. Today, it’s a popular tourist stop for its small beach and the steep stair climb to a panoramic viewpoint over the bay. There is a statue on the island of Titov, the Russian.
Evening in Halong City with bright lights and local life
We arrived back in port around 5 pm but we had the night to ourselves. Jan and I walked into Halong City and it was far more vibrant than we expected. The city is important because it’s the main gateway to Halong Bay which is the hub for cruises and tours. The wider region is also known for coal mining and port activity, so it has a working side alongside tourism.
We met another couple, Frank and Jan and together we took a small shuttle into a local market. After that, the driver dropped us at an authentic Vietnamese restaurant where we had a fabulous meal.
This was our meal at the restaurant called Hang 86. not bad for the four of us.
On the way back to the ship, the city lights were unreal and honestly, it felt like we were driving down the Las Vegas strip with buildings lit up and flashing. The overhead tram line glowed green, the amusement park was hopping with what looked like a local dance evening and as we walked down the pier a huge ferris wheel flashed above the suspension bridge stretching to the other side of town.
Back onboard
Once back on the ship, we grabbed a couple cocktails in the Explorer Lounge, caught up with others and traded stories from the day. We were especially happy that we spent so much time outdoors in perfect weather. The 26°C with a breeze was, without question, perfect weather to experience a port to remember.
The ship stayed at port overnight and in the morning we enjoyed another lazy cruise on the Coral Princess through all the islands in Halong Bay, as we sailed to our last port of call in Vietnam.
It's a sea day tomorrow as we rest for our next visit to Da Nang where we will get another chance to enjoy the hospitality of the Vietnam people.
"Goodbye Halong Bay" and thanks for the wilderness experience !
Reminds me of our time at Halong Bay last year. We stayed on a small 50-60 passanger vessel overnight in Halong Bay. It was breathtaking.
NOTE: We will be in Jeju next week, April 13-17, when do you arrive?
Looks truly amazing. What a great adventure. 💙 the last photo of you and Jan!