Cam Ranh & Nha Trang
- Paul Hallman
- 2 days ago
- 7 min read
Updated: 2 days ago
After the intense and historical pace of Ho Chi Minh City, Cam Ranh felt like a more relaxing day. Today wasn’t about rushing from one major landmark to the next, it was about slowing down, enjoying the coast and letting Vietnam come to us.
As we arrived in the port there were so many fishing boats as well as freighters anchored in the bay. At one time I counted over 50 freighters of various styles. Most noticeable was the floating fish farms and the blue barrels that lined the farms. These ran for at least 2 miles on the side of the main channel and at the time we did not know what they were. The other thing we saw was sand everywhere along the waterway and up the hills. The fish farms were for growing oysters and people actually live on the floating buildings year round.
Docking at Cam Ranh - Why weren’t we in Nha Trang?
Even though Nha Trang is the name most people recognize, our ship docked in Cam Ranh. The reason is practical and a very “modern Vietnam”. The previous port dock was in the center of Nha Trang which is about 40 miles from where we docked. The Nha Trang port dock has largely been overtaken by development. Prime waterfront space has been sold off and repurposed as the city leans hard into tourism. Hotels and resorts are going up everywhere. Nha Trang is famous for its beaches and skyline attractions (including its massive Ferris wheel), and the coastline is clearly being shaped for vacationers more than for cruise ships but it is located about 1 1/2 hours from the ship.
Cam Ranh, on the other hand, can handle large vessels but access involves passing through a military-controlled area, which shaped our day more than we expected.
Shuttle through the military base
We started with a 30 minute shuttle bus ride from the port. The route took us straight through a military base and it was obvious we were in a restricted zone. Security was watching closely and they were very clear. No photos from the bus. Not casually out the window, not discreetly on a phone. It wasn’t aggressive, just firm and it made the ride feel very different from a typical “scenic transfer.”
The shuttle dropped us in a nearby spot called Cara World that didn’t have much around. It was more of a functional staging point than a destination.
Meeting our driver and guide
Jan and I had booked a private excursion just for the two of us. At the drop-off point we met our driver and tour guide, then headed toward Nha Trang with a simple plan. Top of the daily schedule was for Jan to get a massage so I would then explore the city with the guide while Jan relaxed, then we’d reunite and finish the day together.
The massage Drop Off
When we arrived at the first massage place, Jan went in but then decided it wasn’t for her. Fair enough because comfort matters, and “relaxation” doesn’t work if the setting feels off. We tried a second place, and she decided to go with it. Not what she expected but her initial plan was to get a massage in Thailand, however that never happened, so Vietnam was her next best shot.
Later, when we picked her up, her review was honest and simple. It was average, but okay. Not a highlight, but for the money it gave her some relaxation from the intense walking and climbing we have been doing. In Thailand a one hour massage was $10 U.S. and in Vietnam it was $16. Clearly it was not about the price but more about the result. Jan had some time to do some local shopping as she waited for us to return.
Cultural Center for Music & Art
While Jan was at her massage, I went to the Truong Son Craft Village & Cultural Center, and it ended up being one of my favorite parts of the day. I listened to musicians play traditional Vietnamese instruments and it was genuinely impressive. They were very skilled, expressive and it was unlike anything you can really understand from a recording or a quick video clip.
One woman was playing the đàn tranh (also called the Vietnamese zither), a traditional Vietnamese plucked string instrument. It’s the long lacquered box instrument in front of her, beautifully decorated with inlaid mother-of-pearl motifs of dragons and phoenixes. The single string violin is unique to Vietnam and is a Mono String. The stone Xylophone is called an ancient stone Lithopone.
This is a short video I took of the music they played on the various instruments.
The Handprint in the Rock
It was a 5 minute walk to the rock behind the Cultural Center and I wanted to check out the formation and how it all arrived in that spot. These iconic rocks in Nha Trang were formed naturally over hundreds of years through tidal erosion and weathering, not moved there. These large stacked boulders which face the sea were sculpted by environmental forces, creating a unique coastal landscape and a popular tourist spot. The views were outstanding with a wide look over the town and that long sweeping beach that makes Nha Trang feel like it was built for seaside living.
This is also where we heard the story of the handprint in the rock. Local legend says a giant or protective spirit once stood watch over the bay and pressed a hand into the stone leaving an imprint behind as a reminder that the coastline has always inspired awe and respect. Whether you take it as myth or just a great local tale tied to a natural feature, it gave the spot personality and standing there with the wind and the water below, it was easy to see why stories like that endure. From up there, the one detail that really stood out was the beachfront with the vast sandy beach.
The landscaping along the shore is beautifully manicured and the beach itself is organized like a resort postcard with umbrellas everywhere, stretching from one end of the waterfront to the other.
I could also see Vin Pearl Island where the tram runs up a large hill plus this is the site of the tallest Ferris Wheel in Vietnam standing tall at 250 M or 820 feet.
Po Nagar Cham Towers - Older history in a Coastal City
After the rocks I visited the Po Nagar Cham Towers (often spelled Po Nagu). This was the day’s biggest dose of history but it was a different kind than war museums and colonial buildings. This Hindu settlement is over 1000 years old and still is a working site.
The towers are remnants of the Cham civilization built mainly between the 8th and 13th centuries. The Cham was a powerful coastal trading culture and these brick towers were religious sanctuaries and were strongly influenced by Hindu traditions. The site is especially associated with the goddess Yan Po Nagar, a mother-protector figure linked to fertility and prosperity.
What struck me most was the craftsmanship. Those famous Cham bricks fit so tightly together that people still debate how they managed to do this over 1000 years ago. It’s a reminder that Vietnam’s story has deep layers long before the chapters most of us grew up hearing about.
Long Son Pagoda and the Buddha
We then went to Long Son Pagoda, known for the large white Buddha overlooking the city. It’s an active Buddhist site, quiet, devotional and very much part of everyday local life.
I made a classic travel mistake. I was wearing shorts and I couldn’t go in. Even from the outside the Buddha is striking. It had a calm and watchful eye above the city. Because I was not able to go inside I used photos from another photographer on the ship who granted me permission to "share" his photography skills. Thanks to Dennis for these wonderful photos.
Picking up Jan
Around 2 pm we went back into the main city to pick up Jan. She came out of the spa relaxed even if the massage wasn’t amazing. The important part was that we were back together and the day stayed easy.
We stopped for lunch at a restaurant and had Pho, warm, fragrant and exactly what we wanted mid-day. It’s becoming our Vietnamese comfort food because it is a simple, satisfying and somehow the perfect dish every time.
Last stop was the Market - Again ?
Our final stop was the market. A lively colorful finish before heading back. Markets always feel like the most “real” part of a city with vendors shouting out and begging you to purchase their wares. We didn't purchase anything on that visit but we did experience another market.
Back to the Cara World Drop-off Spot
After the market, we returned to the Cara World drop-off spot so we could catch the ship shuttle back. The military base is a massive site and used for their training. The images from that drive are only recorded in our minds, not on digital print.
Resorts everywhere
On the way back to our ship, we saw more evidence of what this coastline is becoming. It already has resorts but they are adding some very large new hotel resorts and they are being built everywhere. Cranes, fresh concrete, big developments promising ocean views. It looked like a tourism boom in real time. Whatever Nha Trang used to be, it’s clearly transforming into a major vacation haven.
It was a relaxed day but the weather was hot again with 36C heat and high humidity. It included just enough culture and scenery to feel like we’d truly visited the city without the emotional weight of the previous stop.
Tomorrow is a sea day as we sail for Halong Bay, another stop in Vietnam which is one port that we had been looking forward to visit and we have a planned excursion. After a busy two days in large cities we need the sea day break.
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