Slipping Through the Reefs
- Paul Hallman
- Feb 6
- 4 min read
After leaving Hawaii some five days ago, we arrived in Raiatea, French Polynesia this morning at 7:00 am on the Coral Princess. It felt like a true milestone in our Pacific crossing—watching the open ocean slowly give way to the dramatic outline of this lush, green island.
Threading the Needle Through the Coral Reefs
As we sailed toward Raiatea, the ship had to pass through a narrow opening in the surrounding coral reef. From our balcony, we could clearly see the waves building and crashing on the reef—large, rolling swells breaking into white foam while we slipped through the calm water inside the pass.
The contrast was striking. On one side, the open ocean heaving against the reef and on the other, the protected lagoon turning into that classic South Pacific blue-green. Once inside the reef, the Coral Princess stayed close to the shoreline, giving us wonderful views of the lush, mountainous interior as we made our way toward the port of Uturoa, which is the main town on the island.
The waves were crashing against the reef while the lagoon had calm water
As we entered Raiatea we could see Bora Bora in the distance. We won't be making a stop on Bora Bora, but will be stopping in Tahiti on Saturday.
Bora Bora in the distance as we slipped through the coral reef
A Short History of Raiatea
Raiatea, often called the “sacred island,” is one of the most important historical islands in French Polynesia. Long before Europeans arrived, it was a major center for Polynesian navigation and culture. Skilled voyagers set out from Raiatea in double-hulled canoes to explore and settle distant islands across the Pacific. The island’s key sacred site is Marae Taputapuatea, a large stone temple complex where chiefs and priests from many islands gathered for ceremonies and alliances. It's now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
European explorers reached Raiatea in the 18th century, followed by missionaries and, eventually, French colonial control. Today, Raiatea is part of French Polynesia, with Uturoa as its main town and port. It is less touristy than Tahiti or Bora Bora, but it remains a quiet hub with a deep cultural legacy and a strong place in Polynesian history.
Our First Impressions of Raiatea’s Port
Uturoa felt older and more worn than some of the other stops on this cruise, rather than a polished, tourist-focused façade. After disembarking, we walked through the small downtown area, where a handful of shops were open. The town was bustling with locals either in small cars or on motorcycle but the town itself, was a mix of local offerings:
Hand-made jewelry in stores and marketlike settings
Simple clothing and beachwear but expensive
Various small souvenirs and everyday items
One large grocery store called Carrefour Market
Lots of vendors selling tours of the island or boat taxies to the other islands or beaches
There wasn’t a big “cruise port village” atmosphere here but more of a local town that just happens to welcome cruise visitors from time to time.
After the Rains: Raiatea in Green
We’ve arrived just after the rainy season, and it shows. The island is incredibly green—thick vegetation climbing up the hillsides, trees and shrubs looking fresh and full, and everything feeling very alive and recently watered. You can almost feel the moisture lingering in the air. as the humidity was very high. The combination of recent rains and today’s weather made for a very lush, tropical scene.
Heat, Humidity, and a Change of Plans
By mid-morning, the heat had really settled in. It was about 30°C and very humid—the kind of heavy warmth that makes even a short walk feel like a workout. As we wandered through town, we realized that pushing much farther in that heat wouldn’t be enjoyable.
Most of the excursions we might have considered were either already fully booked or weren’t quite what we were looking for. With no appealing tours left and the sun turning up the intensity, we decided to head back to the ship.
Instead of forcing a long, uncomfortable walk, we chose comfort: a quiet, relaxed day indoors on the Coral Princess, enjoying the air conditioning, and introducing new games to our friends Pauly and Lisa in the Card Room.
I tried to figure out what this yacht was but no one knew. My hunch it is a Exploring vessel
Reflections on Our Raiatea Stop
Our time in Raiatea was brief and low-key, but still memorable for a few reasons:
The dramatic entrance through the reef, with waves crashing on either side.
The close-in sailing along the shoreline, showing off the island’s green, post-rainy-season landscape.
The simple, authentic feel of the port and town, without the big commercial cruise build-up.
After five days at sea from the last Hawaiian port, Raiatea was our gentle, humid welcome to this part of the South Pacific—a reminder that not every port day has to be busy to be worthwhile.
Tomorrow we visit the Island of Moorea, French Polynesia where we will tender into the port. We're scheduled to take an island tour tomorrow and Jan and I are excited to visit this island.
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