Kho Samui - Thailand At Last

Paul Hallman
5 days ago
5 min read

After two full days at sea, we finally arrived at the port of Chaweng Biri in Thailand—our first stop in the country following a hot, busy visit to Singapore. Because Koh Samui doesn’t always have a deep-water berth for large cruise ships, the Coral Princess anchored offshore and we came in by tender. With about 1,700 passengers to move, the town supplemented the ship’s tenders with two double-decker high-seas trawlers. We boarded the first one, an all-wood boat, and the crew made it a genuinely fun ride with music, smiles, and a relaxed welcome. About 30 minutes later, we reached the port.

I took some photos of the local tender, and found it interesting. The upper level was out of bounds, and the lower level was still in a state of repair. The aft floors were not yet completed although the wood was ready to be nailed down. The engine was clearly visible to anyone walking to the aft. These boats were an interesting ride although with rocky seas, the hull cut right through the water and it was a calm ride.

We’d booked a private island tour in advance with Janny’s Taxi Service, and right away they impressed us: clear meeting instructions, first-class support, and the best line of the morning was “Pay us when you finish.” A great start.

This is Janny and our car - such great people and so friendly

The port itself was intense. As soon as we stepped off the tender, we were surrounded by people trying to sell tours and taxis. We pushed through the crowd to get out to the street, and one man even grabbed Jan’s arm and wouldn’t stop. She had to shove him off and move quickly. It ended fine, but it was a reminder that busy cruise ports can be chaotic.

Once we found our driver, we climbed into an air-conditioned Toyota 4Runner and headed out to see the island. As we walked to the car we passed a setup for an afternoon wedding that was going to be held in the center of the town. We tried to estimate the number of settings on the tables and guessed that over 1200 people could be seated - In direct sunlight with no coverage from the sun and in 35C weather and right beside the long dock in the port. Not my idea of a sit down wedding reception.

Rick and Marilyn, our Florida friends on board, helped us do research using the ship Facebook site and we found a local tour available for half the price of the ship excursions, and together we decided that the Janny's Taxi choice would make for an interesting day, so off the four of us went and it was great.

These are some photos of the roadway as we headed to the Big Buddha Temple

Big Buddha Temple (Wat Phra Yai)

Our first stop was Wat Phra Yai, home to Koh Samui’s iconic Big Buddha, built in 1972. The word WAT means a Buddhist Temple or Monestery. While the statue is modern, the meaning is timeless—Buddhism is central to Thai life, and places like this are living spaces of worship, not just landmarks. The seated Buddha represents calm and protection, and from the steps you get sweeping views over the coast—an unforgettable “welcome to Thailand” moment.

Plai Laem Temple (Wat Plai Laem)

Next was Wat Plai Laem, a colorful temple complex that reflects the blend of Thai and Chinese influences common in coastal Thailand. The standout is Guanyin, the many-armed goddess of compassion, rising above the water. It’s visually stunning—mosaics, bright colors, reflections—but still clearly a place where people come to pray and make offerings.

There was a temple that we entered with painted walls and murals. The detail was amazing.

And the Big Buddah Temple made me chuckle as he smiled down on the crowd visiting.

Grandfather & Grandmother Rocks (Hin Ta & Hin Yai)

Driving around the island, we noticed whole stretches filled with rental properties and upscale villas, perched for privacy and ocean views. Then we stopped at the famous Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks—natural formations that have become a well-known Samui landmark, tied to local folklore about an elderly couple and a tragic sea journey.

Nearby was a small market, and one detail made us laugh - gasoline sold in wine-like bottles, ready for the island’s endless stream of motorbikes and scooters—practical, informal, and very “island life.”

Is this one of Jan's favorite stops so far?

The Mummified Monk

One of the most memorable stops was Wat Khunaram, home to the mummified monk Luang Pho Daeng. He reportedly wanted his death to serve as a final teaching on impermanence—a core Buddhist idea. He asked that if his body did not decompose quickly, it could be placed in the temple as a reminder and if it did, he wanted a normal cremation. He is displayed seated upright in a meditative posture, reflecting a life of discipline and practice.

He prepared for death through intense, lifelong meditation, a strict diet, and final ascetic practices. In 1973, he predicted his death, entering a deep, final meditation session for seven days without food or water, passing away while meditating in a lotus position.

How did he prepare

Deep Meditation: Daeng was renowned for his ability to meditate for extended periods (up to 15 days), slowing his metabolism and reducing body reliance on resources.
Dietary Restrictions: He followed a strict, meager diet, which likely lowered body fat and removed bodily fluids that contribute to rapid decomposition after death.
Final Act: Before his death at age 79, he told his followers he was dying and entered a final, silent, one-week meditation, culminating in his death in a seated position.
Voluntary Preservation: His intention was to use his preserved body to exemplify Buddhist teachings on impermanence,

His body is protected by a glass case. The sunglasses now worn by the mummy were added later to hide the deterioration of his eyes

The Temple area around the Mummified Monk

Waterfalls & Elephants

We finished the day inland at the waterfalls, where the island turns greener and more jungle-like. We also visited with a few elephants, a memorable way to end the tour and a reminder that Thailand is more than beaches and ports—it’s also its wildlife and rural interior.

Back to town with Thai food and then onward to Bangkok

Back in town, we stopped at a restaurant for some excellent Thai food before heading back to the ship. The day on shore was received so well by the passengers that most stayed in the town until the last moment. What happened next? There was a long lineup to board the tender so we had to wait for 1 hour to board and ultimately, because the ship to shore time was 30 minutes, we were late leaving the port. Our Captain will compensate for the delay and will increase our cruising speed to make it to our next port.