An Island tour of Samoa
- Paul Hallman
- Feb 15
- 4 min read
Our arrival in Apia, Samoa was our 21st day at sea and Jan and I, along with two other couples opted to find a local company to take us on a tour of the island. Apia, is the capital of Western or Independent Samoa, and is a city of 40,000 on the island of Upolu. It's picturesque waterfront is lined with public buildings, shops, and trading companies.
When we got off the ship there were so many companies and individuals looking to provide tours and after some negotiations we decided on Alex Lolo's Tour Company, and Hazel was our tour guide and driver. It was her sister that owned the company and they have 6 vans that they use for tours.
When we left the ship in our nice, roomy van we started driving around the city, but soon we all realized that everyone was boiling hot. The air conditioning was not working and the temperature outside was a lowly 30C. Very politely, we asked for another vehicle and within 10 minutes they brought us a new van and yes, the AC did work, so off we went on our Samoa adventure. The new van was bit smaller but it was cool. Great service from this tiny tour company.
Immaculate Conception Cathedral
Our first stop was a magnificent church located in the center of the city called the Immaculate Conception Cathedral. It suffered serious damage in the earthquake of 2009, and has undergone restoration and extension. After three years of repairs, the new cathedral was opened to the public in June 2014. The interior was beautiful and the wooden ceiling an impressive work of art. It certainly did look new.
The doors along each side of the church were open to allow for ventilation
At the city Administration Building we were fortunate to watch the flag-raising ceremony which is a proud way to start their day. A marching band begins to play, as uniformed officers raise the country flag to the music, —an elegant view of Samoa’s national spirit in the heart of the capital.
Next stop - - The Town Market
As we strolled through the bustling market in Apia we felt a sensory feast that captures the city’s vibrant spirit at every turn. Vendors greet you with warm smiles as they lay out tables overflowing with fresh produce—succulent tropical fruit like papaya and pineapple, heaps of bananas and limes, and bundles of leafy greens—alongside trays of freshly caught seafood still gleaming from the sea. The air was rich with the scent of sizzling street food and sweet treats, and it’s hard not to pause at every stall to see what’s being cooked, cut, or wrapped to go. In the heart of Apia, the market feels less like a place to shop and more like a living snapshot of Samoa’s daily life, color, and local flavor.
Robert Louis Stevenson - Treasure Island
Robert Louis Stevenson came to Samoa in 1889 for his health, but soon made it home. He built a house at Vailima above Apia, where he wrote books, rode through the hills, and became part of local life. Samoans named him “Tusitala,” meaning “Teller of Tales,” for the way he listened and shared stories. He’s most famous for Treasure Island written in1883. He’s also well known for Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. When he died suddenly in 1894, he was carried to the top of Mount Vaea and buried there—his grave still overlooking the island he grew to love.
Countryside Drive
In Samoa’s countryside, daily life often centers on the aiga (extended family) and the village, with a strong emphasis on shared space, shared work, and caring for one another. Many families live in traditional fale—open-sided houses designed to welcome breezes and keep everyone connected to what’s happening around them. Instead of separate rooms, life flows in one communal area: people talk, weave, prepare food, and rest together, with mats rolled out for sitting and sleeping.
At night, it’s common to sleep where the air is coolest—on the fale floor or on a covered veranda/porch area—protected from rain and insects while still feeling the open air. The openness isn’t a lack of privacy so much as a different idea of it: comfort comes from being close to family, and the home is built for togetherness.
You may also notice family graves on the land near the house, sometimes in the front yard. This reflects a deep connection to ancestors and to fanua (land): keeping loved ones close is a sign of respect, continuity, and belonging, and it reinforces the family’s ties to their home place across generations.
We completed the drive around the island and stopped at a beachside waterhole called the Piula Cave Pool. Driving along their roads we saw much of the rugged countryside.
After driving the countryside we made a stop at a high end resort for a drink and washroom break. This hotel was very nice and had a fabulous pool and bathing areas that overlooked the ocean. I had a local beer for $4.95 which was pretty inexpensive from my perspective. On this island a McDonalds Big Mac sandwich is $12 US and we can't understand how the locals could afford to take their kids out for a day at McD's.
It was a real eye opener to find out how the locals lived in the countryside. They never sell their properties because their family would have no where else to go. Each village has it's own mayor and is responsible for roadside maintenance, hence, the streets are clean and well decorated with colorful car tires filled with flowers. When we left the city of Apia we drove maybe 15 miles and during that time we drove through 28 villages. There are hundreds of small villiages on the island and they are all proud of their homes.
One more day at sea before we arrive in Fiji where we will be in the capital city of Suva, and then the following day we will be on the island of Dravuni, which is a small island off the coast of Fiji. On the island of Dravuni, we will spend the day with a local tribal community and a beach. We expect it will be an different kind of adventure and very hot.
Hot and Humid - that's the forecast for the next two days on Fiji.
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