A Rainforest Hike in Fiji

We only had one day in Suva, Fiji but it didn’t take long to feel like we’d stepped into a completely different world—hot and very humid air, old and poor, with surprises as the day passes. The harbour and port were very commercial with lots of containers being stored and ships in the bay. Fishing boats were moored in the harbor and the port was busy during the entire time we were in town.

A little about Suva

Suva is the capital of Fiji and its largest city. It sits on the southeast coast of Viti Levu, Fiji’s main island. Suva is known as a busy port city and a cultural hub—more “real life Fiji” than a beach resort town—with government buildings, markets, universities, and a mix of communities that reflect Fiji’s history.

Fiji’s culture is shaped by strong iTaukei (Indigenous Fijian) traditions alongside a large Indo-Fijian community, plus other Pacific and international influences. You’ll often hear people greet each other with a friendly “Bula!” (hello), and there’s a noticeable emphasis on community, hospitality, and respect.

Population:

• Suva city proper: roughly 90,000–100,000

• Greater Suva / metro area: roughly 200,000+

One thing we did learn about Fiji was the history of Cannibalism. It's part of Fiji’s distant history, but it wasn’t practiced everywhere and was usually tied to warfare, revenge, and displays of power, not everyday food. It declined quickly in the mid-to-late 1800s with major social change—especially the spread of Christianity, shifting chiefly politics, and later British colonial rule (1874). Today it’s mainly discussed as historical context and is often sensationalized, while modern Fiji is best known for its welcoming culture.

Our day ashore

After docking, we joined an organized excursion and climbed onto buses for a drive out of the city to a tropical forest. Jan and I were the first passengers from our cruise ship to get on the bus and we had some surprises waiting for us. The bus had windows that open and that should have been our first clue. Once on board the bus we noticed that the seating was rows of 5 seats rather than the typical 4. Each seat was covered with plastic over the cloth, so as we sat down we "stuck to the seat." Within 5 minutes we were dripping wet from sweat so we asked the bus driver if he could turn on the AC. To our surprise, he kindly told us that busses in Fiji do not typically have air conditioning. Jan and I then got off the bus because it was too hot to sit and wait for the rest of the passengers to arrive. Finally, they all appeared and we reboarded. There was nothing we could do except "grin & bear it". The temperature in Fiji was 38C and very humid. Many people complained, but we did our best to survive our 30 minute ride to the Colo-I-Suva Forest Park.

Colo-i-Suva Forest Park

It's a protected patch of tropical rainforest in the hills just outside the city of Suva. The park is known for its dense canopy, fern-lined trails, birdsong, and a series of streams and small waterfalls that create clear, cool swimming holes.

The walking tracks wind through thick vegetation with plenty of shade, and you’re never far from the sound of running water. The real reward is reaching the natural pools—the kind of place where you can’t help but jump in, especially after a warm, humid hike. For a one-day cruise stop, it’s the perfect “see a different side of Fiji” outing: quick to reach, unmistakably rainforest, and memorable the moment you hit the water.

Waterfalls and a swim

The best part of the hike was reaching the waterfalls. There’s something about seeing water tumble through a rainforest that makes you forget time completely. We kept going until we reached a natural pool area, and yes—Jan swam while I watched. Cool, fresh water after a humid hike is hard to beat, and it turned a great walk into one of those “we’ll remember this” moment.

Back to the ship and a Market stop

Before we knew it, it was time to head back—wet hair, tired legs, and that happy feeling you get after doing something active in a place you’ve never been. Suva’s markets are one of the best places to see everyday life in Fiji—busy, colorful, and full of local conversation. The main stop for most visitors is the Suva Municipal Market, a large covered market near the waterfront where vendors sell piles of tropical fruit (bananas, pineapples, papaya, mango when in season), root crops like taro and cassava, fresh greens, spices, and often fresh seafood as well. It was Saturday and the market was packed with families. We even saw an older man pushing a cart ringing a bell hoping to sell his ice cream.

One day in Suva wasn’t nearly enough, but for a cruise stop it gave us exactly what we hoped for: a taste of the city’s energy and a real rainforest adventure just beyond it. It was not what we expected as the photos and advertising tends to let you believe. The beaches and resorts were not in Suva but rather a bustling city,

Up next: A day with the natives on Dranuvi Island, Fiji